American Made Blog Tour - Blog Roll

 50 States in 25 days.  O' the excitement!  O' the Give Aways!  O' The Quilting! 

Mercy Me, I just might swoon from all the goings on around these here parts. (She says in her best Southern Accent.) Set yourself down on the porch sugar, and I'll pour ya'll a glass of sweet tea.  Let's join the fun there is room for all.

American Made Blog Tour Blog Roll--

DAY	DATE	STATE	STATEHOOD	BLOG
Day 1	19-May	Delaware	Dec. 7, 1787	Blue Striped Room
	19-May	Pennsylvania	Dec. 12, 1787	Cherry Lynch Quilts
Day 2	20-May	Georgia	Jan. 2, 1788	Butterfly Threads Quilting
	20-May	Idaho	July 3, 1890	Taffy Talk
Day 3	21-May	Connecticut	Jan. 9, 1788	Jump Cut Arts
	21-May	Massachusetts	Feb. 6, 1788	A Quilting Jewel
Day 4	22-May	Maryland	Apr. 28, 1788	Spring Water Designs
	22-May	South Carolina	May 23, 1788	The Crafty Quilter’s Closet
Day 5	23-May	New Hampshire	June 21, 1788	Park Hill Farm
	23-May	Virginia	June 25, 1788	Pat Sloan’s Blog
Day 6	26-May	New York	July 26, 1788	Quilts from my Crayon Box
	26-May	North Carolina	Nov. 21, 1789	A Stitch in Time
Day 7	27-May	Rhode Island	May 29, 1790	Seaside Stitches
	27-May	Vermont	Mar. 4, 1791	Quilter in Motion
Day 8	28-May	Kentucky	June 1, 1792	Simply Sandy
	28-May	Tennessee	June 1, 1796	Confessions of a Fabric Addict
Day 9	29-May	Ohio	Mar. 1, 1803	Olive and Ollie
	29-May	Louisiana	Apr. 30, 1812	Fleur de Lis Quilts
Day 10	30-May	Indiana	Dec. 11, 1816	No Hats in the House
	30-May	Mississippi	Dec. 10, 1817	Life as a Quilter
Day 11	2-Jun	Illinois	Dec. 3, 1818	A Sentimental Quilter
	2-Jun	Alabama	Dec. 14, 1819	Green Quilts
Day 12	3-Jun	Maine	Mar. 15, 1820	Quilts of Love
	3-Jun	Missouri	Aug. 10, 1821	42 Quilts
Day 13	4-Jun	Arkansas	June 15, 1836	Sew at Home on Pine Ridge
	4-Jun	Michigan	Jan. 26, 1837	Crafty Blossom
Day 14	5-Jun	Florida	Mar. 3, 1845	Flourishing Palms
	5-Jun	Texas	Dec. 29, 1845	The Caffeinated Quilter
Day 15	6-Jun	Iowa	Dec. 28, 1846	Kindred Quilts
	6-Jun	Wisconsin	May 29, 1848	Freshly Pieced
Day 16	9-Jun	California	Sept. 9, 1850	Cali Quilter
	9-Jun	Minnesota	May 11, 1858	The Curious Quilter
Day 17	10-Jun	Oregon	Feb. 14, 1859	Sew Mama Sew
	10-Jun	Kansas	Jan. 29, 1861	Lilac Lane
Day 18	11-Jun	West Virginia	June 20, 1863	Coop Crafts
	11-Jun	Nevada	Oct. 31, 1864	Inventive Denim
Day 19	12-Jun	Nebraska	Mar. 1, 1867	Renaissance Sandi
	12-Jun	Colorado	Aug. 1, 1876	Sew Incredibly Crazy
Day 20	13-Jun	North Dakota	Nov. 2, 1889	Terri Stegmiller Art Quilts
	13-Jun	South Dakota	Nov. 2, 1889	Moneik Quilts
Day 21	16-Jun	Montana	Nov. 8, 1889	Why Knot Kwilt
	16-Jun	Washington	Nov. 11, 1889	Bloomin’ Workshop
Day 22	17-Jun	New Jersey	Dec. 18, 1787	Studio 78 Notes
	17-Jun	Wyoming	July 10, 1890	Excessive Compulsive Sewing
Day 23	18-Jun	Utah	Jan. 4, 1896	Fireball Quilts
	18-Jun	Oklahoma	Nov. 16, 1907	Hollyhock Quilts
Day 24	19-Jun	New Mexico	Jan. 6, 1912	Dora Quilts
	19-Jun	Arizona	Feb. 14, 1912	So Many Quilts, So Little Time
Day 25	20-Jun	Alaska	Jan. 3, 1959	Quilt As You Go
	20-Jun	Hawaii	Aug. 21, 1959	Barbara Bieraugel Designs

Easter Basket Surprise--Nail Care Pouch

Happy Easter Everyone!  I hope the Easter Bunny brought everyone lots of goodies.  Our Easter Bunny worked well into the night to bring a Hoppy Easter to our home.  (Perhaps if she had started the Easter Basket Surprises a little earlier she would not have had to stay up so late.  But that is just how we roll or...er.. hop)

This year the Easter Bunny got an idea.  A wonderfully, simple basket addition for each of her three little bunnies.  This year along side the chocolate bunnies, jelly beans, peeps and iTunes Gift cards the Easter Bunny decided a homemade nail care kit was in order.  You see the Easter Bunny knew that all 3 of her little bunnies bit their nails.  She also knew that she had the only set of clippers, files and scissors.  That would never do!  So she decided that each little bunny would have to have a set of  their own.  Shopping she went for all the necessary supplies, clippers files, scissors and all!  Oh! What fun she would have!  She sewed hours into the night to finish these pouches for her little bunnies knowing that they would have the best kept nails in town.  This is how she made them..

Nail Care Pouch-

One pouch will hold nail file, cuticle scissors, finger nail clippers, toe nail clippers, and tweezer.
You will need the following:

Supply List:
1 - 6.5"X13" fabric for exterior
1 - 6.5"X13" fabric for interior
1 - 7"X6.5" fabric for pocket
1 - 6.5"X 13" piece of interfacing
1 - 7" X 14 inch piece of batting
2 -  Dritz brand snaps



Instructions:

1. Fuse 6.5"X 13" piece of interfacing onto wrong side of 6.5" X 13" exterior fabric following manufacturers directions.

2. Layer 6.5"X 13' piece of fabric for interior onto batting, right side facing up.  Be sure to center fabric over batting.  Pin layers together and quilt as desired.  I quilted .75" spaced lines down the length of my interior fabric.

3.  Once batting and interior fabric are quilted trim excess batting away and square up fabric to 6.5" X13".

4. Take 7"X 6.5" inch piece of fabric for pocket and fold in half with right sides together, so that piece measures 3.5"X 6.5".  Pin along 6.5" side and sew to make a tube.  Turn tube right side out and press.  Stitch along folded edge.

5. Place tube on right side of interior fabric. 5 inches up from bottom edge.  This tube will become your pocket.  Pin in place to interior quilted fabric matching raw edges.  Edge stitch down sides and across bottom of pocket.

6. Lay interior fabric with pocket basted on right side up with pocket opening facing up.  Mark along pocket width with fabric marking pen for pocket dividers.  For my dividers I marked lines at  .5 inch, 1.75 inch, 2.75 inch, 3.5 inches, 5 inch and 6 inches at both top and bottom of pocket, making sure lines are square with pocket and interior fabric.  Sew along lines to make dividers for nail tools, back stitching at top and bottom of pocket.  Insure tools fit in each pocket now.  Once interior and exterior sides are sewn you will not be able to easily change divider size.

7.  Turn both interior and exterior fabrics wrong side up with pocket opening facing towards top.  Using a round edge of a glass, templet or lid curve top edges of fabric.  This step is optional.  All four corners can be left square if desired.

8.  Pin interior and exterior fabrics right sides together.  Sew together using .5 inch seam allowance.  Be sure to leave 3 inch opening at bottom of pouch for turning. Clip corners and curved edges.  Turn. Press.

9.  Pin seam allowance under.  Edge stitch around pouch.   Fold bottom of fabric up to make flap. Press.  Fold top edge of fabric down to make second flap.  If desired you can top stitch 2.5 inches down from top edge and .25 inches down from bottom of pocket to create fold lines for pouch.

10.  Attach snaps to top pocket flap and bottom pocket flap as desired.

Lots of UFOs

Recently I have had an overwhelming flood of creativity.  I don't know if it is the cooler weather or what?  All I know is I cannot write down my ideas fast enough!  I have more UFOs than area 51! Ha!  The fact that I have started referring them as 'pile #1, 2, 3 and 4' is probably an indication I need to get organized (or sew faster.)

 First I have these little hooters to share.  They are in stage one of development far, far, FAR away from the completed idea.

Hmmm. maybe I'll start on these next?

Second I have this pile with these mason jars and lovely embroidered fabrics.

I could start on these. I am sure I could finish them in a couple of hours!

Third I have this pattern for a toddler bean bag from lellaboutique.com.  I really have to get this done.  I know a little fella who is turning 2 soon.  I should definitely start on this next.

Forth I have those hexie flowers.  I just keep crankin' them out.  They haven't yet reveled what they would like to be.

Fifth I also have these sheets of red hexagons.  Which have suddenly declared they are to be stockings for Christmas.

Sixth, I have a pile of apple core blocks, okay partial blocks, which are destine to become an apple pie quilt.

oh, pie.  Wait maybe I have to reorder?  Without a doubt, pie is the next project. Hey, a girls got to eat.

Graphic Interfacing Tutorial.

Okay.  In my last post I talked about using graphic interfacing to make a quilt block.  This technique is used for quilt blocks that have little teeny tiny squares, sometimes referred to as postage stamps.  Because, well, they are as small as, you guessed it! Postage stamps. These tiny little quilt squares are very difficult to machine sew.  They are almost as small as my pressure foot!  They tangle easily in the feed dogs and are generally difficult to work with.  Using this method the quilt block comes out with nice straight rows and columns!  The best part is that the tiny little pieces stay where you want them and don't get tangled into one another. Think of it as a car seat for your quilt pieces!

For this example I used a medium to heavy weight interfacing.  Before beginning you need to determine how large you need your interfacing to be.  To do this you need to take the size of your fabric squares and multiply it time the number of squares you have.  For example.  I have 14 squares per row. I multiply this time 1.25 inches (the size of the squares) and I end up with 17.5 inches.
 (14 x 1.25 = 17.5)  I cut my interfacing 1 inch larger to give myself a little extra space to work with.  Total my interfacing was 18.5 inches square.  You certainly do not have to make your interfacing larger because prior to fusing your squares you will need to trim off the excess interfacing.  Either that or you will have to clean off your iron.

Once you have the size you need cut out, flip the interfacing over to the non-fusible side.  Using a straight edge and a pen or pencil draw a grid onto the back of your interfacing.
I used my personally designed duck-tape pen.
If you don't have one that's OK.
I am sure a plain ordinary pen works just as well.
Be sure to space the lines out the size of your squares.  My squares were 1.25 inches so I drew 15 lines 1.25 inches horizontally and vertically to create my grid.

Now that your lines are drawn you can flip  the interfacing over and start laying out your design.  You should be able to view the grid from the opposite side.  Lay out your pieces according to your design, lining up the fabric along grid lines.

Once your design is aligned carefully (This is an important step. ) Very carefully press and fuse your fabric to your interfacing.  Be careful not to "iron" your fabric a slight movement will cause those tiny little blocks to shift. If the blocks shift this will cause you great pain and suffering as you try to gently pull off the fabric pieces before they cool.  You will pull too hard and find out they are permanently fused thus tearing your interfacing. This will result in you starting over from the beginning. This is all theoretical.  It never happened to me, ever.

After you have carefully fused your fabric, the fun really begins!  Now it is time to sew! Flip your design over and you should notice the interfacing wants to naturally fold along the rows.  Isn't it great!  Fold the interfacing along your line, right sides of fabric together. Pin every couple of blocks to insure you squares stay aligned as you sew.  Then sew 1/4 seam down the side of your column. Continue to sew your rows across the block.  Your design will then look something like this...

after sewing--seams create tube

or this..

Now you will need to cut the seam allowance open.  You will need a small pair of sharp scissors.  Large scissors work but they are a bit cumbersome with the tiny seams. Insert the scissors into the "tube"(for lack of a better word) that you created when the rows were sewn.  Cut as straight as possible, through the tube, down the interfacing on the backside, being careful not to cut through your stitching.  Once the seam is cut open press the seem open. 

seams pressed open

 The reasons for this are as follows... One.  An open seam will be much easier to line up when you sew your columns. Two.  Sewing through all those layers is difficult and exhausting.   Three. Quilting through all those fabric lumps and bumps is a nightmare.  Your long-arm quilter will thank you.

Pin your rows in several strategic locations, insuring your seams line up. Sew down the rows at 1/4 as you did before.  Once all of the rows are sewn cut seam allowance open.  Press seams open.

Whoop!  You have done it!  Congratulations!

Minecraft Pick-Ax Block.

Here is the graph for the Pick-ax block.

You will need.

24 teal blocks
15 sage
18 dark brown
10 Light brown
104 background blocks.

I cut mine to 1.25 inches. because I wanted a block size of roughly 10.5in to 11 in square (depending upon how close your seam allowance comes to a quarter of an inch). If you want your block smaller reduce the size of the blocks.  If you desire a pick-ax quilt make your blocks 2,  4 or 6 inch squares.

For the smaller sized blocks I recommend using graphic interfacing. I didn't the first time through and believe me that was TORTURE.  It will make keeping those tiny little blocks in order SO much easier. You can buy it at stores like Hancock, Jo-Ann and maybe even Hobby Lobby.  Or you can make your own.  I believe most of the interfacing you can purchase has a standard 1 inch grid.  If you need an alternate size you will have to make your own. Making your own is time consuming but if you can draw a straight line it is pretty simple.

If you choose not to use the interfacing lay out all your pieces first!  Nothing worse than getting half way through only to discover you switched two blocks and have to rip out tiny little seams.  I laid my block out on my ironing pad.  I have a small portable ironing pad that I use for most of my small pressing.  This pad worked great as a temporary design 'wall' of sorts, I could just pick up the entire block at once and not worry about little pieces being dropped or blown away.

Good luck and happy sewing.

The plan, the project and the puppy

I have a drooler.  She is part boxer part shar-pei.  We love her to death but she makes the biggest mess when she takes a drink. I have tried place-mats, dogie water absorbent food mats and finally resorted to rags.  Now rags work the best, they can be washed daily or as needed but they look, well.. bad.  No one really wants to walk into my kitchen and gaze at my husbands dirty, old t-shirt lying under the dogie bowls, no matter how functional they may be. Couple that with the fact that the dogie water absorbent mats while functional, cannot be changed out daily at $10-$40 a piece no matter how much I love my puppy.

 Thus the plan...design and sew up. A functional, yet cute, water absorbent food mat.  I sketched out a couple of ideas and this is what I came up with..

The Puppy Food Mat

Materials:
32- 2.5 in x 2.5 in scrap squares.
2  strips of fabric 2.5 in by 16 inch
2 strips of fabric 4.5 in by 13 inch
an old terry cloth towel or piece of terry cloth 15 in x 26 in
3 length of fabric strips 2.5 inches wide for binding.

Arrange your 32-- 2.5 in X 2.5 in squares in a configuration as shown below:

Sew together and press seams open. Pressing seams open makes it easier to quilt. Sew 2.5 in X 16 in fabric along long side of patchwork. press seams.  Sew 4.5in X 13 in pieces along short side of patchwork.  press seams.

Next pin quilt top to slightly larger piece of terry cloth or towel.  I used pins to baste the 2 pieces together.

Quilt as desired, using walking foot attachment. I quilted along the seams of the patchwork.

Trim patchwork quilt to shape desired.  The first quilt I trimmed into an oval using the side of a pizza pan as my guide for rounding the corners.  The second quilt I trimmed to look like a dog bone.  (more on that later).  Once you have the shape you want bind as you would any quilt.  I used cross grain strips for my binding and in hindsight I think bias binding would have been easier to use.  Then again it is for a dog.  

Isn't she patient. 

Now you have a mat, used up some scraps, re-purposed an old towel and when your mat gets wet or dirty you can just throw it in the wash!  How cool is that.  I think a few of these would make great gifts for a friend who just got a new puppy. just sayin'

Beaver Block -- A tutorial

Okay!  For all of you Beaver Fans out there here is the tutorial for making my version of a Beaver Block.

This block finishes 12.5"X12.5".  All seams are .25 inches.

Fabric Choices::
I chose fabrics scraps from my stash this is what you will need:
Solid brown for Beaver Body & ears
Brown print for Tail
Light brown for belly
Black for nose/space between teeth
white for teeth
background fabric in color of your choice
You will need either small beads or buttons for eyes.

Out of Your Fabric Choices Cut:

Background::

1- 2.5"x 4.5"

2- 3"x3" (Cut in half/diagonally)

Body::
2- 2.5"x6.5"
2- 2.5"X4.5"
4- 3"x3" (cut in half diagonally)
1- 1.5"X2,5"
2 - 2"x2" --ears

Belly:
2- 3"x3" (cut in half diagonally)
2- 2.5"x 2.5"
1- 2.5"X 6.5"


Tail::
2- 3"x3" (Cut in half diagonally)
1- 2.5"x4.5"
1- 2.5X10.5


Nose::
1- 1.5"x2.5"

Teeth::
2- 2.25X1.5"
1- .75"X 2.5"

For assembly:
Match 2 triangle pieces from background matching right sides together with 2 body triangles.  Sew forming 2 half Square triangles units. Press. Trim to 2.5"x2.5" squares.
Match 4 Body triangles right sides together with 4 belly triangles.  Sew forming 4 half square triangles units. Press. Trim to 2.5"x2.5" squares.
Match 2 body triangles right sides together with 2 tail triangles.  Sew forming 2 half square triangle units. Press. Trim to 2.5"x2.5" squares.
Match 1 tail triangle to 1 background triangle right sides together. Sew forming 1 half square triangle unit. Press. Trim to 2.5"x2.5" square

(Note: You will have 1 tail and 1 background triangle leftover).

Using 2"x2" body squares fold into prairie points.  Fold in half diagonally. Press. Fold in half diagonally again.  Press.

Take 2 half square triangles units with body and background and using seam ripper carefully pick stitches from center of seam.  Create an opening large enough to insert 1 prairie point in between the two triangles.  Pin, matching prairie point raw edges with raw edge of half square triangles.  Sew. Press open.  Creating ears.

For Teeth:
Sew 1 white rectangle to .75 black strip along long edge.  Press seam toward black.  Sew other white rectangle to opposite side of black.  Press seam toward black.  Trim unit to 2.5"x 2.5"

Sew teeth unit to nose and body 1.5'x2.5" pieces as shown above.  press. Completed unit should measure 2.5"X4.5"

Complete Beaver block by laying out all pieces and sewing into columns.  Then sew columns together.

For the bag I added a border around the block before quilting.

Quilt as desired.  Sew eyes on after quilting has been completed.  I quilted the tail slightly denser than the body. Feel free to add or embellish your block to your hearts content.  Some Ideas:  You could add yarn or embroidery as whiskers; use trapunto to make parts of the beaver puff out; or put  your beaver in front of a pond!  Have fun and play!

A Halloween Tote

I have been working like a fiend. Which is, I suppose, appropriate considering the season.  I have 2 OSU quilts in process. Hope to have those finished and added to my etsy site by Saturday.  I finished quilting Jean's Diamonds yesterday.  I have to say, AWESOME.  I was a bit apprehensive about the design when I started but it turned out great.  I'll post pictures soon.

Here is the Halloween Tote I made up to go with my Spooky Halloween Quilt.  Knowing my kids, mostly my daughter, I knew if I made a quilt for me to cuddle under as I pass out candy, she would "need" something for holding her goodies. I used an excessive amount of the Glow in the Dark thread on this face, but boy it it worth every stitch!  It has a surprisingly bright glow at night.  She is very excited about using it this Halloween!

Here is what you need to make one of your own...
Materials.
24 -- 2.5"x6.5" rectangles Halloween print
One -- 5" by WOF (Width of Fabric) cut of Halloween print for handles
One 18"X16" fabric for front background behind mummy
Three 1.5" by WOF cuts of White fabric.
Two 2.25"X2.5" inch black fabric for Eyes
One 1.5"X2.5" inch black fabric for mouth
Two - 1.5" squares white
One piece of fabric 32" X 18" for lining.
Two 18"x16" pieces of fusible fleece
One 5" X 40" piece of fusible fleece
Thread.

Assembling the Mummy:
1.  Cut Three -- 4" long strips off of white 1.5" strips.  These strips need to have the salvage edge on one end.  They will be attached to the mummy sides to make it look like he is unraveling.
Cut 1.5" White strips into the following lengths.
-two 4.5" strips, four 6.5" strips, two 8.5" strips, one 9.5" strip, two 12.5" strips, one 3" strip,and one 2" strip.

2.  EYES:  Take 1.5" white squares and draw a diagonal line across the wrong side of the fabric with washable pen.  Lay one square on upper right corner of one 2.25"X2.5" black fabric. Lay other square on upper left corner of second 2.25"X2.5" black fabric.  Sew along diagonal line. Press white triangle back. Set aside.

3. Sew 2 of the 1.5"X6.5" strips of white fabric together along long edge. Press seam open. Trim into three 1.75"X 2.5" pieces. Now take blocks from step 2 and sew together with white 1.75"X2.5" pieces as shown. Press seams open.

4. Take one 1.5"X3" white strip sew to left side of 1.5"X2.5" black strip for mouth. press seam open.  On right side of black strip sew 1.5"X2" white strip.  Press seams open.

5. Take remaining white strips and lay out mummy head and shoulders as shown. Sew remaining mummy pieces together so seams are on the outside, press seams open.

6. Once Mummy Head is fully assembled, lay mummy onto front 18"X16" piece of background fabric. Place bottom edge of mummy 1.5 inches above bottom edge of fabric. Place the three 4 inch strips with salvage edge at various spots around edge of mummy. Once they are in desired location, top stitch mummy head and shoulders onto background fabric. 

(optional: for additional 3-D effect you can add a layer of batting between mummy and background before mummy is sewn on.)

7. Take one 18"X16" piece of fusible fleece and fuse to wrong side of background fabric.  Stitch around edge.  Quilt bag front as desired.

Bag Back Assembly

1.  Take 24 -- 2.5"X6.5" strips and lay them out as shown.   Sew and press rows together to make one piece 18"X16".  

2.  Fuse Fleece to wrong side of bag back.  Quilt as desired. 

Bag assembly.

1. With right sides facing, pin bag front to bag back.  sew around sides and bottom of bag, leaving top open.  

2.  Box in bottom corners of bag.

Leaving bag front and back wrong sides out.  Lay bag so bottom seam is lined up with right side seam.  (if you have never boxed in a bag bottom before it can be confusing.)  There are many great tutorials online to help.  I like this one. from Lazy Girl Designs.  The only change I make is I do not cut out the corner until after I have sewn it.

Once bag seams are aligned. mark a line 1.5 inches from corner of bag.  Sew across line twice. Trim off corner.  Repeat on other side.

3.  Fold Lining fabric in half making a piece 18"X16".  Pin sides and sew.  Box corners as shown above.

4.  Take 5 inch X WOF piece for handles and fuse fleece to wrong side.   Once fleece is fused, fold fabric in half along width and press. 

Open handle and fold sides into center seam and press a second time.

Without unfolding, Fold handle once again on center crease.  Pin and sew along both sides.

Once handle is sewn, cut length in half.  Now you have 2 handles.

6.  Take bag exterior and turn right side out.  Being careful not to twist handles. Pin front handle 5 inches in from both sides.  Sew to bag.  Turn bag to back and repeat with handle for back.  

7.  Take bag exterior with handles securely sewn on and place inside lining, right sides together. Pin top edges, leaving a 4 inch opening for turning.  Sew around bag top, taking care to catch handle ends in seam.  Turn bag through opening.  

Once bag is turned, right sides out, top stitch around upper edge a scant 1/8 inch from edge, closing opening as you do so. 

Now your little goblin is ready for some serious trick-or-treating.